is there any way to do this w/ and ebrake? you would need different calipers off the rear of something right?

I want to use an e- brake also, you said front brakes from a 79 Monte Carlo, no e-brake. Will the the rear from that model work ,if came with disk's & is there a e- brake on it???

The Monte Carlos are drum rear. You could probably use rear calipers off a Caddillac.

Yeah I cant remeber but I ran up on this when I was doing the research on it some of the hotrodders are doing it to keep the e brake....Ill see if I can find all my paper work on this and see what I can find.But yes it is possible to do it and keep your e brake.

Look to rear disc brake calipers from FWD's, plenty have a handbrake attachment. Given most bagged trucks don't carry a lot of weight they should do the job fine and are generally quite compact.

Callum

can one of you two please clarify the drum system removal? any cutting or all unbolting, must the axles be removed from the tubes?

The axles have to come out. Then you just cut the drum backing plate off. I'll take pictures when I do the other side.

What about the pilot hole size. Downey told me there where two sizes on the later trucks??

Since you can use the mustang svo rotors in the rear can you use the front on the truck also since it seem the lug pattern is the same and they are both rear wheel drive?

I really dont know about that???....the caliper mounts would be diffrent cause I think the front one is bigger on the SVO than the toyota

Plus arent the Mustang Floating Rotors instead of the rotors bolted to the hubs like the Toys?

Yes, they are floating calipers on the fords. The ford rotors are also larger than the toyotas. However you can use the SVO rear disc brakes on the rear instead of the chevy's if you like. The mounting holes are a little wider and you can use the e brake that is built into the calipers.

This is how you remove the backing plate.

First I cut as far as I could with a cutoff wheel towards the bolt holes after hammering out the studs to seperate everything. After that I used a sawzall to get closer to the inner edge.

Then I bent it back and forth until it cracked and was removeable. It takes some prying and creative persuasion to get it off, but only takes a few minutes.

And this is what you end up with.

oh, hmmm. i just assumed it was welded. should be pie...

Nope its a bolt on deal. You just cant get it off without pressing the bearing off the axleshaft ($$$) or cutting it off. I opted for the free way.