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smorrison1
 Post subject: Weber for 22r (with pics)
New postPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 2:13 pm 
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nearing completion on my carb, just need to know these last few things:

Image

Where does letter A hook up? the one below it also...

For B, this is a little vacuum thing coming off the intake just under the carb, wth is the point of this? can i just plug it?

C: I ordered my parts from weber and i guess i forgot to order the block off plates. can i just plug the lines coming off of this, or should i take the whole thing off and just block the holes (i have spare metal and could make block off plates if i need to.

D: and this is a biggy, I pulled this line and have no clue where it goes, it comes from the brake booster, but i cannot remember for the life of me where it hooks up.

can anyone help me lol, pictures would be best, but if you dont have them, i have enough mechanical knowledge to figure out what you are telling me.

thanks, in advance.


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yodaforce
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New postPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 9:30 pm 
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You can get a female pipe plug for the EGR (C) where the tube fitting is on the front side, cap off the little nipple on top of it. Everything no longer used on the "octopus" fitting under the pass. side of the carb can be capped off or replace the fitting with a pipe cap (just like C). "A" would normally hook up to a fitting on the air cleaner (it's a crank case vent, my Weber came with the rectangular K&N chrome filter assembly and had a fitting on the bottom of it for this), and as far as "D", My carb has a vacume fitting at the base of the carb. Mine is a 34/36DGEV, only slightly different from yours I believe.
Visit Diverse-customs.com - metal fabrication, suspension, custom paint and body, from Street Rods to imports, and everything in between.


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m_i_zombie
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New postPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 12:20 am 
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The vacuum line from the carb (only has one) goes to the distributor port closeset to the radiator. It must be connected to the distributor for timing purposes.

D goes to the back side of your intake. It controls the vacuum needed for your powerbrakes. It should be one of 2 large male ports on the intake. One will be for the coolant to enter the intake and be on the bottom of the intake. The other which you will need will either be on the back side or it will come off of the vacuum tree right under the chole on the carb.

If you have the factory intake still you will need the remove the vacuum port tree and plug it so it doesn't leak. The EGR need to be blocked off at the intake, head and exhaust manifold for it to run properly.


I'll post you some pics tomorrow of my set up and label it all for you.


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smorrison1
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New postPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 9:59 am 
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thanks alot man, that would be a big help


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yodaforce
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New postPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 11:34 pm 
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Here's mine, even though you can't nessesarily see everything too well. I did not want to have to block off the EGR at three different points so I just capped off where the tube came out into the intake. You can see where the PCV goes into a fitting that weber supplied with my kit that bolts on where the EGR used to go.
Visit Diverse-customs.com - metal fabrication, suspension, custom paint and body, from Street Rods to imports, and everything in between.


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smorrison1
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New postPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 2:02 am 
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that helps a ton man, i think i got everything figured out, but can you show me or tell me what you did with the spring on the throttle cable? i just gerry rigged something, but i know it wont last long.


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m_i_zombie
 Post subject:
New postPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 2:07 am 
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OK here is my set up as promised. Now mind you i don;t have a stock intake but it is rather similar.

I tried making this simple.
Green is the shoke hot wire, kook up to your factory riring that goes to the carb.

Blue is from the PCV to the bottom of the air cleaner set up.

Yellow is from the single vacuum port on the carb, it connects to the port farthest from the engine on the Distributor. Cap the other off to keep dirt out and from losing vac.

Orange is from the lower side of the intake (large nipple) to the brake booseter

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Plug from the main harness to carb. Your weber carb will use a male spade to connect to this. Use some dielectric grease to help with connectivity and keep moisture out.
Image


On all the other vaccuum ports make sure they are plugged, if you have any vac. leaks it won't run right.


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smorrison1
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New postPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 9:12 am 
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ok, so it turns out the tube i could not figure out where it went, came off of the evap canaster. can i ditch that? just cap off the line coming from the gas tank? or put a breather on it? or maybe just hook it into the canaster and leave it??? lol.

the rest of it I had mostly figured out last night, downloaded a diagram off the internet of the factory vacuum, and traced and crossed out anything i didnt need.


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m_i_zombie
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New postPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 10:27 am 
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You can get rid of the EVAP set up and other junk as long as you don't have any emission laws.

The throttle spring should not need to modified, Its a DOI. You may have to adjust the throttle cable some. I had to take a lot of slack out but that was due to the body drop.


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smorrison1
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New postPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 12:11 pm 
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ok, got everything hooked up....truck wont start... here are pics, anyone help me figure out whats up???

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m_i_zombie
 Post subject:
New postPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 12:22 pm 
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have you tried a little fuel down in tha carb? Its not going to fire right up without a little priming. double check vac hoses.


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smorrison1
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New postPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 12:32 pm 
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m_i_zombie wrote:
have you tried a little fuel down in tha carb? Its not going to fire right up without a little priming. double check vac hoses.


i feel retarded, fired right up, and its alot quiter than the factory carb...


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smctoy
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New postPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 1:14 pm 
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glad to see that you got it figured out & running! how does it run now with the new weber?
eh..i'd hit it...with a dump truck!


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smorrison1
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New postPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 1:17 pm 
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smctoy wrote:
glad to see that you got it figured out & running! how does it run now with the new weber?


the idle is 100000000x's better than what it was. its quiter, and smoother throughout the throttle.

I don't feel much horsepower gain though, probably because i still am using factory everything, including the exhaust.

I hope this thread helps out other people who have problems installing this, i know it can be really really confusing.


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2thpic
 Post subject: Re: Weber for 22r (with pics)
New postPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 10:08 am 
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well i haven't got near as fare as you have before your first post, so i got a question.
in the so called Weber instructions. (crappy by the way) It says install EGR plate on manifold and screw vacuum line in. ??????????
o this is my first Toyota and i know nothing about Toyota motors. i have always had Chevy products and they for the most part have been 350's or 400's. i was trying to look close at the pic you guys posted to see if i could see the EGR plate installed. could y'all help?
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